Guide Flame polishing 3d prints

Guides are instructional threads or articles.
Eric

Eric

local maker
Staff member
This a just a little hot tip:

After removing support material and deburring 3d prints the rough or cut edges exposed often have a lighter appearance than the rest of the print. You can knock that chalky appearance right down with an open flame though.

I reccomend a microtorch but a lighter also works in a pinch. You must move the flame constantly and never linger in one spot or you risk actually melting the part.

 
OMG that's such a good idea

Flame polishing always feels like one of those things that shouldn't work. Like I definitely thought I was being pranked the first time I tried it.
 
Andy said:
OMG that's such a good idea

Flame polishing always feels like one of those things that shouldn't work. Like I definitely thought I was being pranked the first time I tried it.
Click to expand...
Totally, now that I use this trick for the prints I find myself testing it on other stuff. Sun bleached folding chair? Wonder if the blow torch can fix this? (It did not).

I originally saw this video where the videographer is working on much thicker plastic chairs so he is able to move more slowly without damaging them but i would not take this leisurely approach on a 3d print unless it has sufficient mass to absorb the thermal energy there. Matte plastics like ecoterra can become overly glossy if you persist too long in one spot and just too much overall heat can lead to warping and deforming if even if you are careful to not linger. With my 2.4mm thick light shade 3d prints i keep my working time under 10 seconds and then let it cool if there is more work to done still.

 
Back
Top